Minus twelve at Gurudongmar, plus eighteen in a Leh courtyard by noon. What to actually carry for a Himalayan winter, and what to leave at home.
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Leh sits at 3,500 metres and the mountains do not negotiate. Here is how to plan rest days, inner line permits and a route that respects altitude.
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Almond blossom in April, saffron in late October, powder at Gulmarg by January. A month-by-month look at what the valley actually looks like when you arrive.
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Three thousand uneven steps, a swinging bridge and a gorge that stays humid all year. What the walk down to Nongriat asks of you, and what it gives back.
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